Deltaville, VA to New York

5/17/13
The last time I updated this journal we were spending some time with Ryan and Kari in Deltaville, VA.  Here's Kari and Karen with a loaf of freshly baked bread.

Kari & Karen with a loaf of French bread.

The next day we said our goodbyes and headed south.  Yes, south.  We're trying to make progress north so we headed south to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay to the Atlantic Ocean.  Southerly winds were forecast for the next few days - perfect for heading to NY on the ocean.  If we had continued north up the Chesapeake Bay we still would have to sail south on the Delaware to arrive at the ocean.  The forecast held up and we had a leisurely motor/sail up the coast.  The sails always help move the boat along even in light wind.  A leisurely sail = fairly calm seas (we had a bit of a large, lazy sea swell that rolled us a bit).  We were able to play Scrabble, backgammon and have some aerobic workouts.  There's nothing like an ocean sunrise to start your day.

The sun is almost up.

Sunshine!

Another sunny day.

I turned on the television as we neared NY Harbor and watched the Good Morning America show from NYC featuring the new world trade center spire project.  We were arriving the day the spire was to be affixed to the top.  When we left last fall I had taken a picture of the building being constructed, not realizing what the building was going to be.

Photo taken 11/3/12

Photo taken 5/10/13

Spire construction.

NY Fire Boat

Sail NY Harbor in style!

Another view of the new trade center building & surroundings.

My new camera has a healthy zoom feature.

More views - this from the north.

Statue of Liberty on a cloudy day.

Our passage began at 5 am on Wednesday and continued nonstop to Friday evening when we anchored in the bay at Croton-On-The-Hudson.  63 hours but who's counting.  We enjoyed a quiet, early evening and well-deserved sleep before continuing up the Hudson River.

Scenes from the Hudson River.

A picturesque place to live on the Hudson River.

Clouds move in as we travel the Hudson River.

Our destination - Kingston, NY where we left just after Hurricane Sandy's devastating wake last fall.  Vince at Hideaway Marina welcomed us upon arrival - it felt like we were back home.  Jerry had the opportunity to put on his walking shoes and get back into his walking.  Kingston is either uphill or downhill - a good workout.  Abundant green makes it feel like spring.

A Hudson River view.

A view of the Hudson from the hills of Kingston.

From Kingston we made good time riding with the current and a strong southerly breeze.  What does a sailor do in a strong following breeze when his mast is on deck?  Improvise!  Jerry grabbed an old shower curtain that he uses as a protective sheet when working on projects and clamped it to the arch on the back of the boat.  He called it our stern spinnaker.  It actually helped out quite a bit and we were going 7.5 knots at times (Persephone usually motors around 5 knots).  The shower curtain is clear so our view behind was not obstructed.

Jerry's Stern Spinnaker

Ship traffic on the Hudson.

Hook Place is nice quiet place to stop for the night.  The following morning we were up at 5 am and underway.  Actually, I got up, started the motor and hauled the anchor.  Jerry woke up with a start when the motor started and popped out of bed.  The start of another beautiful day!  The current was in our favor for the morning and the winds were forecast to pipe up - the early bird gets the worm.  Or the early sailor gets the favorable current.

Sunrise as we leave Hook Place near Coeymans on the Hudson.

Today we are at the town dock in Waterford ready to start our travels on the Erie Canal.  If you have a chance before we leave, you may see us at the Waterford Visitor Center's camera at: http://208.125.161.182:7110/view/index.shtml.

Happy Friday!

5/2/13

From Beaufort, NC we headed to Oriental.  About 20 miles or so on the ICW to our friend's Don & D's dock in Oriental.  Stopping to visit with Don and D is always fun - games, dinners, boatyard tours, campfires.  There are so many people passing through at Don and D's and so many activities.  D was entertaining 8 cousins/relatives when we were there.  D is like the Energizer bunny - there's no limit to what she can do!  Don was busy working on their sailboat, "Southern Cross", on the hard at Sailcraft Marina.  A 5 minute bike ride from their house.  Speaking of bikes, Don & D have a collection of bikes that we used when we were there.  It is a pleasure to be able to hop on a bike and ride around the streets of Oriental.  To see more of what's going on in Oriental you can check out towndock.net.  I also took advantage of Don & D's backyard to do some sail repair.

Karen sews in Don & D's yard, Persephone's black mast to the left in the background.

The second day we were at the dock Donna & Jerry on Bluejacket sailed in.  We had not seen our lifesavers since the Bahamas.  What a joy to catch up on hugs and stories.  They stayed at another couple's dock - Tom and Joyce's (their boat is on the hard in Maine awaiting a summer of northern cruising).  Tom & Joyce not only hosted Donna & Jerry at the dock but invited everyone over for dinner a couple of nights at their house.  Thanks so much! 
We continued our reunion with Bluejacket by sailing together from Oriental to Ocracoke on the Outer Banks of NC.  There's nothing like having the time to sit around and talk, play board games, and dine onboard with Donna & Jerry.  The quiet setting and relaxed schedule (none) was perfect. 

Persephone & Bluejacket at Silver Lake, Ocracoke.

Donna & Jerry at the beach on Ocracoke

Jerry & Karen

Jerry on the dune looking out at the Atlantic Ocean

Our rental bikes for exploring the island.

An egret taken from the nature trail boardwalk looking west.

We said our "See you agains" to Donna & Jerry Saturday night and left Ocracoke on Sunday. 
15 hours of motor sailing up the Outer Banks, across the Albemarle, and arriving at a perfect spot after dark.  The next morning we were off again, another long day motor sailing the Currituck Sound and through Norfolk, trying to be in the right place at the right time.  The weather forecast "promised" se winds for Tuesday to sail up the Chesapeake.  That would be perfect! 
We woke up Tuesday morning from our anchorage at Old Point Comfort and started motor sailing into the wind, against the current, with almost half-mile visibility in the fog on the Chesapeake.  I guess weather forecasts are never promises.  We were rewarded with a short day, only 9 hours or so to arrive in Deltaville, VA.  We always stop to visit with Ryan and Kari here aboard Valkyrie.

Jerry returns from his walk.  Valkyrie at the dock.

It was only a few months ago that Ryan organized Jerry's return flight to NY to the hospital and Kari's flight to Nassau to join me on Persephone.  Another heartfelt reunion.

Kari's dock garden

Persephone off in the distance toward the left, a short dinghy ride to Valkyrie at the dock to the right.

So, here we are in Deltaville enjoying Ryan & Kari's company, walking the streets of Deltaville for exercise, waiting for the NE winds to come around to the south for our continued journey north.  I promise to take more pictures!  I caught up to my birthday present camera from Jerry that was shipped here to Ryan & Kari's.  I just have to learn how to use it!

4/23/13  We plan on heading from our friends, Don & D's dock in Oriental to Ocracoke tomorrow.  Donna & Jerry on Bluejacket will be traveling with us.

South East Coast Turtle Tour

4/12/13

Leaving Ft. Pierce, FL for Jacksonville

Sunrise at Ft. Pierce as we exit the inlet

Hitchhiker on the ocean just north of Ft. Pierce

I think “South East Coast Turtle Tour” is the perfect title for our two passages from Ft. Pierce, FL to Jacksonville, FL and from Fernandina, FL to Beaufort, NC.  Since we patiently waited for south winds to sail north we were rewarded with smooth downwind sails.  Both passages required the on and off use of our engines as the southerly winds rose and dropped in speed.  The ocean swells on the beam rolling us side to side as we sailed forth. 

Did you know sea turtles spend some of their day just lounging on the surface of the ocean?  The calm conditions offered superb turtle viewing.  We’d sit in the cockpit in the warmth of the sun and spot turtle lumps.  Though encrusted with barnacles and other clinging sea growth a turtle top protruding above the water catches the eye.  Some of them shine as the sun reflects off the wet round dome.  A number of times we’d spot a turtle directly ahead and watch as it lazily paddled just out of the way of Persephone and slid by the hull almost within reach.   

Turtle!

Loggerhead, I believe

Turtle!

Our 2 days on the first leg and 3 on the next were filled with “Turtle!”  and “Dolphin!”   

Dolphin!

Beautiful spotted dolphin, some with a defined white stripe along their sides highlighting their black spots.  I just know that when they’re swimming along the boat near the surface on their sides they’re looking at us.   Ever make eye contact on the ocean with a dolphin?  Incredible!

So our passages thus far – no storms or squalls, no broken boat parts, and no winds on the nose.  Just turtles and dolphins.  Oh, and a few hitchhikers stopped by for a rest.  Purple Martins I believe.

Between our passages we had the opportunity to visit our friends Chris and Amy in Atlantic Beach, FL.  Baby Andrew had celebrated his first birthday just ten days before our arrival.  Next – his first life jacket (which he did NOT like) and his first dinghy ride and evening at anchor aboard Persephone (which was fine AFTER the life jacket was removed).  Thanks for bringing and creating a sumptuous dining experience aboard Persephone Chef Chris!

Andrew, Amy, Chris & Jerry

Traveling vs. at a dock or at anchor presents a challenge for Jerry’s cardio-rehab walking schedule.  If the dolphins looked into the cockpit at the right time they could have watched us marching, jumping, sliding, dancing.  Each of us in an 18” x 3’ space in the cockpit to the rhythm of the rolling seas and the tunes on the i-pod.  Back to land here in Beaufort provides the freedom of the open road for walking and continued heart strengthening.

Our plans are to continue our journey north hoping this warming trend lasts the rest of the spring. 

Horses & Loons off Carrot Island, Beaufort, NC

3/28/13

3/28/13  We love Manatee Pocket here at Arno's place.  He has been so kind to invite us to stay at his dock.  We've been able to get up each morning and walk without having to launch the dinghy and find a place to come ashore.  Arno's bikes make my grocery shopping so easy with 3 grocery stores and 2 fresh produce stands within a mile or two from here.  Thanks Arno!  And the Manatee!  This is Manatee Pocket after all........

Manatee in the foreground, Persephone to the right.

A closer look from the boardwalk.

A mama & baby!

A better look at the baby.

And, besides walking our other daily activity......

We are ready to start on our next hop up the coast of Florida.  With southerly winds forecast we'll have no problem from Stuart to Jacksonville.  I'll try to be ready to post some new pictures the next time we have internet access.
Happy Holidays and watch out for those tricksters on April 1st!

3/15/13  It was a strange feeling to leave West Palm Beach.  I had been anchored there since 1/26!  Our big voyage, with our friend Bob in his boat, was to the north end of Lake Worth.  About 7 miles from West Palm.  After a few days walking with Bob there we left with a south wind going up the ICW.  The storm way up in the NE had produced huge ocean swells - no outside leg for Persephone.  About 35 miles north (I think we had to wait for 7 bridges to open!) we made it to Manatee Pocket.  Currently, we are at our friend Arno's place in Manatee Pocket near Stuart, FL.  There was a package from Maine waiting for us when we arrived here.  My nieces and nephew made t-shirts for us.  Here they are:

Jerry's t-shirt by the well known artist: Owen

Karen's t-shirt by the amazing artist: Kira

Karen's t-shirt by the world-renowned artist: Sydeny