Life Aboard Persephone: February 2014

Time to move on 2/15/14

Daydream has been in the Virgin Islands since the 13^th of January. When we first arrived Jerry Luh experienced the whirlwind tour of St. Thomas – downtown Charlotte Amalie with the shops & tourists, the fort and beaches of Hassel Island, Manfred’s sail loft where he has been making sails for 60 some years, and our favorite places to visit on Water Island. Then Jerry flew out of St. Thomas to Oriental, NC to spend 3 weeks with his wife Donna. She’s been taking care of the house, trying to keep warm during an unusually chilly winter, and most importantly – learning to play the ukulele.

Gerald and Karen aboard Daydream and buddy boat Valkyrie with Ryan and Kari took a short trip circumnavigating the island of St. John; most of which is a national park. After each day’s hop the four of us would get together for conversation, dinner and maybe a game. Kari would show her muscles from the rigorous workout tacking the jib and winching the monster jib sheets on the 57’ Swan. Gerald would complain about his overworked index finger from pushing the button for the electric winches and furler on the catamaran. Water Island to Christmas Cove to Maho Bay to Salt Pond Bay to Caneel and back to Water Island.

At Salt Pond Bay we stopped for 2 nights to allow some time for exploring old favorite spots. We hiked up the mountain, Ram’s Head, overlooking the Caribbean. Ryan spotted a humpback whale breaching. We sat mesmerized for a spell waiting and getting excited every time we saw the whale come up for a breath spraying water from its blowhole into the brisk breeze. It came close enough for us to see the whale underwater and its light colored belly from our birds-eye view.

While at Salt Pond Bay we decided to take the bus to Coral Bay about 6 miles away (up and down the hills) to have a burger at Skinny Legs. It was Saturday and we learned no busses on Saturday. Kari and Karen had never hitchhiked before and St. John was a great place to start. Often locals will stop anyway to ask if you need a ride in their direction. We stuck out our thumbs and quickly discovered that if we walked together leaving the guys way behind we could get a ride. Then we’d ask if there was room for 2 more. We were able to hitch rides for most of the way there and back. And, you don’t use your thumb down here in the islands. You use your pointer finger and point in the direction you want to go. The burgers, of course, were as good as we remembered. I suppose we could have used the 6 mile walk all the way back for the exercise.

Our last stop around St. John was at Caneel Bay. We walked the Caneel Bay Resort grounds that contained many more white-tailed deer feeding on the bushes than it did guests on the beaches sipping drinks with umbrellas. The next day – back to Water Island.

Jerry Luh arrived back in St. Thomas and we planned another trip with Valkyrie. This time to the British Virgin Islands. Kari would have help with the tacking and winching this time. Karen jumped ship.

First day out we headed upwind to Leinster Bay on St. John, sailing and then snorkeling there around Waterlimon Cay. The next day we cleared into the BVI at Soper’s Hole just across the way. We spent the day tacking our way up to the Virgin Gorda Sound. A plethora of chartered bareboats with vacationing sailors filled the channel. Daydream had a head start and motored the first part of the trip then sailed under full sail. Valkyrie sailed off the mooring at Soper’s Hole and soon passed Daydream, no motor needed. Hard to beat a 57’ Swan going upwind with a 39’ catamaran. More hiking, visiting, meals and laughter together at Virgin Gorda Sound in front of Saba Rock Resort. Jerry, Gerald, and Karen toured nearby Biras Creek Resort and climbed to a peak, “Alvin’s Heights”, overlooking the Sound. From the peak we could see Biras Creek’s waterfront property on 3 different bodies of water – an ocean view of the Caribbean looking east, Deep Bay to the north, and Virgin Gorda Sound to the northwest. Anegada was visible about 15 miles away in the distance.

That night we all dinghied to Leverick Bay for entertainment. Michael Beans was performing his sailing and pirate songs, skits, jokes and more as he has been doing for the last 25 years in the Caribbean. His home was anchored in the harbor. Everyone sang along, played the water bottle/pebble shakers Michael provided, and hollered “Arrrr!” like a pirate. He brought smiles to everyone with his show. Part of Michael Beans proceeds go to goodsamaritanofhaiti.com, a foundation he founded and continues to lead. The foundation provides services and education for the children of Haiti.

The next day hugs and goodbyes to Kari and Ryan who were staying at Saba. Jerry, Gerald and Karen sailed to Peter Island for hiking and snorkeling. The next day to Norman’s Island to snorkel the caves and to say we had a drink at the famous “Willy T”, a floating restaurant/bar that is a replica of a top sail lumber schooner. It’s been anchored in the bight there at Norman’s Island since 1966. The following day(don’t ask me what the name of the day was) we went to Cane Garden Bay to walk the beach and have lunch. Live music from shore and a full moon were enjoyed all evening and then as we drifted off to sleep. One more stop before returning to Water Island – Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke to clear out of customs.

So, here we are back to Water Island enjoying the lights of St. Thomas mainland in the distance while inhabiting the peace of the anchorage here at Honeymoon Bay. We’ve cleared in through US customs and have a number of chores for tomorrow: laundry, provisioning, maybe finding some glue for Jerry’s sandals and a get-by-replacement-pair from K-Mart before we head out. Plans are to head west for the Bahamas tonight. We should have a 5-6 day sail to the Jumentoes in the Ragged Islands, Bahamas. It will probably be some time before I’ll be able to get back on the internet to update. I’ll let you know.

Karen, Gerald, and Jerry

Aboard Daydream