6/26/20

As you already know, if you've checked the SPOT, we're back in the states.  Our time in the Bahamas came to a memorable end with a last get together and bonfire at the "yacht club" on Double Breasted Cay.  All of the wood and materials that had been gathered from the beach and used to build the yacht club created a spectacular roaring fire.  There were hugs, tears, and a bottle of rum passed around as we stood talking of the many memorable gatherings at the yacht club.  The last momento put on the fire was the "Beatings Will Continue Until Morale Improves" pirate flag that flew 18' above on a bamboo pole.  Plans were discussed of returning to the states with a sense of foreboding and confusion.  Covid 19, political bickering, civil unrest - hard to leave paradise but weather concerns forced us to start heading north.  Not just the threat of hurricanes encouraged moving but it was HOT and HUMID that far south!  It was an odd feeling knowing these goodbye hugs, these virus-free hugs, would be our last for the foreseeable future.

Conor engraves their boat name on the drift wood slab used as bonfire seating.

The finished piece.  I think Conor took it to Hog Cay for display.

The beginning of the yacht club bonfire at Double Breasted.

The spectacular bonfire!

You know when we decide to move and the weather is favorable we make tracks quickly.  First, 40 miles north to Flamingo Cay on the ocean side sailing and trailing fishing lines.  No luck.  We arrived at the cut at the south end of Flamingo at maximum ebb current opposing the 18 knots of wind.  The seas collided and were standing up; a condition known as "the rage".  We attempted to sail through but the current almost stopped our forward motion so had to start the motor for a minute or two to get through the raging waters.  I took a video of Jerra and Ryan aboard Zinzi when they came in the cut just behind us.    Click here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVoGAHSZWQk&t=19s
The others sailed in later.

Moving from Buena Vista to Flamingo Cay

We follow Zinzi toward Nurse Cay Channel to fish on the ocean side.

Zinzi approaching the cut at the south end of Flamingo.

The next morning we parted ways - everyone aiming for different arrival points in FL, NC and VA.  Persephone was the first underway in the dark at 5 am.  We sailed with lite south east and easterly wind all day and through the warm star-filled night on into the next day.

We ran out of wind on our approach to Lynyard Cay in the Abacos where we anchored for the night.  Hard to believe the devastation evident from Hurricane Dorian - most noticeable were all the leaves missing from all the foliage.  A forest of sticks is all that remained in many areas.  Amazing to see palm trees standing alone having survived intact.  Lots of houses with no roofs, some of the places rebuilt, boats in disarray at the marinas, lots of construction going on.  We were the only sailboat cruising through.  The Sea of Abaco is usually full of cruisers and tourists sailing from one cay to another.  That was before Dorian and Covid 19.

A view of a marina in the Abacos.

Boats damaged everywhere.

We anchored at Crab Cay for the night.  We had sailed at least 300 miles from the southern-most Bahamas to the northern-most Bahamas.

The next morning was a beautiful day as we sailed north onto the Atlantic Ocean out of the Abacos.  15 +/- knots of southeast and east wind.

Bye bye Bahamas!  We'll be back sometime.  With new lures!

2 1/2 days of perfect sailing!  Jerry kept saying "there will be a price to pay for this nice weather."  The wind died almost completely as we passed Frying Pan Shoals off NC and headed towards Beaufort.  Have you ever heard of the calm before the storm?  18 miles from Beaufort, 6 am, the ominous clouds crept towards us with threatening squalls.  The wind went from 2 knots on the beam to 32 knots on the nose with pelting rain.  Jerry reefed the mainsail and jib to hankies.  Persephone doesn't need much sail in these conditions.  We slice through the building seas making good time as the rain pours down.  Suddenly, with a loud bang the mainsail is flapping, the stack pack tumbles down onto the cabin top on port side - our reefing line that holds the mainsail in its shortened position broke!  It takes a while to go on deck in the rain and choppy seas, pull the lazy jacks out of the water, drop and wrestle and secure the mainsail to the boom best we can.

We continued sailing with the jib and motor.  With the wind shift we end up zigging south of Beaufort, tacking when we're just off the beach, and zagging to Beaufort Inlet.  Our planned morning arrival end up being an early afternoon arrival.

Anchored in Beaufort with the mainsail still tied up and the port side lazy jacks/stack pack down.

Rotted rope on the second reef line.

Another view from aft.

We see a familiar boat, Cat's Meow, and anchor next to them waving hello to Don and LaVonne who are returning to the states from Puerto Rico.  More rain as we go below to recover after the 7 hour slog to Beaufort on Onslow Bay (which we had renamed years ago as Onslaught Bay).  We were wet, cold and exhausted.

The next morning, when I poked my head out of the companionway, the sun is coming up and I hear thumping.  Just in time to see one of the wild horses on Carrol Island 300 feet away gallop along the beach at full speed.  Nice welcome to Beaufort!
Rain continues on and off the next few days as we launch the dinghy from the cabin top, put on the outboard, dig out life jackets then go to shore with our hand sanitizer, face masks, dirty laundry and grocery bags to get our chores done.
Entering the US from the Bahamas was easy.  We usually have to take the boat to a dock, call Customs and meet with an officer who comes aboard to check out the boat.  This year the Customs and Border Patrol have an app called ROAM.  We reported our entry electronically.  Simple!

After putting the mainsail back in place, replacing a brass ring that broke holding our lazy jacks lines and stack pack up we made our way to Oriental and the town dock.  (towndock.net)  Right next to Donna and Jerry on Bluejacket.

Persephone and Bluejacket in Oriental at the town dock.  Right in front of The Bean where you can buy an ice cream cone for $2!  Really good ice cream!  So good, you could have it for breakfast.

We are currently at Jerry and Donna's on Broad Creek north of Oriental.

Non-stop activity aboard Persephone to address a number of issues - our 3 4D batteries (100 lbs each) had to be replaced, fuel tanks had to be emptied and cleaned after discovering we had contaminated fuel, we ordered new reef lines and jib sheets, lots of cleaning after a winter of strict water conservation.  It's a luxury to be here at the dock where there's a hose and good friends who bend over backward to help out!

Accessing the fuel tank to clean inside.

Here's our fuel tank access.  Ain't it purty!  The box in the center at the lowest point makes it easy to take a fuel sample.

We hope to be able to help them with their projects as well.
Our plans are to continue north with much-needed boat projects in the upcoming weeks.  Due to Covid 19 and delayed construction/maintenance projects the Erie Canal won't be open on time.  Some of the locks won't open until after August 10.  Too late for us to bother going to our usual spot at Brian and Debbie's just past Oneida Lake.  So our plans are to travel north.  Destination.............
Karen and Jerry
PS  For a treat, go to youtube and watch the videos posted by SV Delos!  Brian and Karin were in the Ragged Islands with us and they have wonderful videos showing the area, the water, life on board....  Just go to youtube.com and type in sv delos in the search bar.  You'll find their most recent videos  (most recent means video taken from a couple of months ago) published every Friday.   Maybe you'll see Persephone at anchor in one of the upcoming videos!