4/6/18

The Exuma chain in the Bahamas, where we spent a couple of weeks, is very popular.  Only 90 miles from the big city of Nassau with an airport, cruise ship terminal, and resorts galore.  Large groups of tourists are ferried by high-speed boats to see the sights of the Exumas - Norman’s Cay with a wrecked plane to snorkel, pink iguanas at Allen’s Cay, the “Thunderball” grotto to snorkel where a James Bond movie was filmed near Staniel Cay,  the infamous pigs at Big Majors Spot, the Exuma Land and Sea  Park, and miles of beaches.  More traffic zipped by than we’ve seen in the past 18 years of visiting the area.  After dark the traffic stops the stars come out and we enjoy the peace at anchor in the beautiful Exumas.

From Rudder Cay to Black Point, Pipe Creek to Norman’s Cay we slowly headed north.  All with excellent places to snorkel for fun and dinner, walk on the beach looking for seaglass and shells, kayak, and live at anchor.

A view of the anchorage at Little Bay, Black Point at low tide.

Ron, Deb, Karen and Jerry sitting on the beach at low tide, Little Bay, Black Point.

Persephone and Scheherazade at anchor in Pipe Creek taken from Thomas Cay.

We walk a beach on the Exuma Sound side of Thomas Cay.

Lobsters and hog fish from the Exuma Sound while we were anchored at Pipe Creek.

A message in a bottle we found along the trail on Thomas Cay.  I wrote an email to the kids who placed the message in the bottle but haven’t heard back.

 

Another picture of Persephone and Scheherazade at anchor in Pipe Creek.

Ron, Deb and Karen return from snorkeling.

What to do with all that lobster?  Make pizza.  Carmelized onions,  tomato slices, lobster, mozzarella and parmesan cheese.

Ron saw a lizard acting funny on the trail one day.  He didn’t notice the snake that was ready to strike the lizard until the snake was attached to his foot instead.  He was in the wrong place at the wrong time.

It looks bad in the picture but he had no snake bite related problems – other than a new nickname, Snake Bite Ron.

One of the many pink iguana on Allen’s Cay.

A “Disney” boat at Allen’s Cay with tourists who came to see the pink iguana.  We called all the tourist boats “Disney boats”.

Norman’s Cay in the northern Exuma chain has always been a favorite stop.  This year we saw a massive construction project.  Someone is building a marina for yachts.  The runway was extended to accommodate larger planes.  We could come ashore to walk as long as we stayed out of the way of the construction.  Normans Cay still has the ruins of a huge house that belonged to a drug lord from the late 70s or early 80s.  In the old days you could take your laundry ashore and draw water from the well at the house to put into buckets to do the wash.  Those ruins have been blocked by construction materials and equipment. 

The houseboat is still there on the hill.  Legend has it that the drug lord asked the owner of the houseboat to go away; anchor at some other cay.  The houseboat owner chose not to.  When he came back to his houseboat the boat was gone.  The drug lord had somehow airlifted the houseboat to the highest point on the island.

Walking up the hill at Normans Cay to the houseboat.

The houseboat at Normans Cay that was placed on the top of the hill during the early 80s. 

 

A panoramic view from the top of the houseboat.

The sea plane taking off from Normans Cay after the guests snorkeled the old plane wreck.  Not far from where we were anchored.

Karen kayaking with the look bucket (clear bottom bucket) at Normans Cay.  Looking for conch.  No conch.

Persephone anchored at Normans Cay.

Sunset from the little island at Normans Cay.  I used to call it Lone Palm Island but the palm, as you can see, fell down.

From the Exumas we headed north to Spanish Wells and Royal Island.  We met a wonderful family from Savannah, GA and enjoyed meeting Andras and Hanmari with their boys Eric, Matthew, and Brian.   And Grace the dog!  They were on a 3 week vacation from Savannah and brought supplies for an orphanage and some churches in the Bahamas along the way.  In Spanish Wells we husked coconuts together on a beach.  And when we arrived in Marsh Harbor, Abacos Jerry gave the boys lessons on cleaning conch.  They had found some while snorkeling, found someone to show them how to get the conch out of the shell and then froze the conch.  Now they are experts on the entire process.  With only  a few days left for them to get back to Georgia we had to say goodbye.  Hope the conch was tasty!

This is Grace.  She stopped by to visit from "Providence" with her family.

Currently we are in the Abacos enjoying the company of  old friends and new.  Ron and Deb on Scheherazade are here and introduced us to cruisers they’ve met.  A boat named “Cayuga” from Ithaca, NY came in to anchor near us at Guana Cay and we introduced ourselves.  We had a chance to visit with Nick from St. Thomas who happens to be in the Bahamas this winter on his beautiful ketch Marie Elena.  We will be in the Abaco area for a couple more weeks before heading back to the states.

Three young sailors enjoying the breeze off Guana Cay, Abacos.

One more picture from Pipe Creek that Deb from Scheherazade took.  We brought our fancy chairs to sit at low tide on the area that dries out for sunset happy hour.

The  next time you hear from us we will probably be back in the states.

3/3/18

Our view of the cave and the palm trees lining the beach on the south end of Rudder Cay.

Sailing along the banks in light winds.

Our view of the sandcastle anchored here near Black Point.

The pictures above are from the last few days as we head north.   See below for pictures to go with these words from Marianne's February visit.

With a freezer full of lobster, hog fish and conch we left the Jumentos.  Marianne would be arriving in Georgetown for a visit!  Her initiation to this salty cruising life was an exhilarating mile + dinghy ride across the choppy harbor from the dinghy dock at Exuma Market on the west to our anchorage on the east.  Our dinghy captain, who was soaked by the time we arrived at Persephone, had a done a wonderful job of keeping me and Marianne dry. 

We enjoy having guests to remind us of the wonders around us that we sometimes take for granted.  Marianne was fascinated with the silty aquamarine blue of the water that changed to various shades of blue, green, and tan depending on the depth, the bottom and the sun.  Every sunset had some colors or shapes to gaze at in awe.

One afternoon we set up the watercolors in the cockpit and Marianne masterfully created the vista capturing the colors and beauty.

The winds were forecast to settle down by the end of Marianne’s week with us so we waited for those winds to go out sailing on the Exuma Sound.  We started the sail heeled over with 20 knots of winds going 7 + knots.  We had the real Marianne at the helm instead of the autopilot we named Marianne!  The winds abruptly died and we motor sailed back to the anchorage just in time to hop in the dinghy and go to a party!  The tourism department had a reception for “winter people” who come to the area.  Traditional foods such as conch, conch fritters, mac & cheese, peas and rice  filled our plates.  Part of a junkanoo band arrived with drums, horns, and costumes to entertain in lively Bahamian fashion.  What a fun way to finish the day!

Of course snorkeling, reading, playing games, singing with the guitar, soduko puzzles were a part of the week too.

Another project: Jerry pulled out his grinder, dremel, and the conch we found at Buena Vista Cay in the Jumentos.  Skillfully cutting with precision he removed the pointy end of the shell – just enough to make a hole to blow through.  Every day Marianne practiced blowing with and without the conch to master the art of conch horn blowing at sunset.  It was such fun to see the determination!  She will have more practice time to master the sound when we deliver the horn to her this spring. 

When two people live on a boat it is always exciting when a guest is coming.  We’ve already heard each others stories time and time again.  Marianne came with new stories!  We listened intently of Marianne’s reminisces of growing up in Germany, meeting her husband at medical school in Germany, hitch hiking Europe, stories of her 3 kids and 8 grandchildren and a labradoodle (Wolfie).  She has traveled all over the world and participated in choral presentations in Europe and the US.  Lots of interesting tales we were so thankful to have her share.  Thank you Marianne.  We look forward to your next visit.

The real Marianne at the helm sailing on the Exuma Sound.   Try this youtube video of Marianne sailing:  https://youtu.be/eb3TT_-iR4w

We found a shady spot to enjoy the tourism department’s festivities.

Marianne clapping along with the beat of the junkanoo band in costume on the dock.

Conch horn project on the aft deck.

Marianne learns about making the conch into a horn.

It must be sunset!  Marianne blowing the conch horn.

Happiness is a walk on the beach.

The waves roll in on Stocking Island.

Wave for the camera!

Mesmerizing water and waves.

The view of Exuma Sound from a hike across Stocking Island.

The view from Stocking Island looking down at our anchorage at Monument Beach.  Georgetown across the harbor.

Another view of one of the Monument Beach anchorage from the top of Monument Hill.

Looking north from the trail on Monument Hill.

Water color painting.

1/24/18

We left Georgetown, Exumas sailing east with Scheherazade and Bluejacket right behind through squall after squall.  Not a lot of wind but tons of rain!  That has been the theme this winter so far – lots of rain!  By the time we arrived in Thompson Bay on Long Island the skies had cleared some. 

The next morning the whole gang headed to the beach and north up the road to electric pole 108 where we turned onto the trail to the beach.  A whole day spent walking and looking through the sea grass on the beach.  Treasures – sea beans.  Sea beans are seed pods that have traveled the ocean currents from as far away as Africa landing on the beach here.  With hours and hours of sanding the beans become highly polished.  No luck finding sea glass.  During our picnic lunch the rain started falling again.  By the time we made it back down the road to our dinghies we were all thoroughly soaked!

Our next destination would be south to the Jumentos or Ragged Islands where there are no supplies so off we went to Hillside Grocery here near Thompson Bay.  We realized after picking up a few things that every item was the same price – about $7.  A bag of potatoes…$7.  4 apples…..$7.  A bag of oranges….$7.

The first day traveling from Thompson Bay we sailed with light winds trolling the fishing lines along behind.  Jerry caught one bonito ; enough for dinner and lunch the next day.  An overnight stop at Flamingo Cay and then on the next day for our destination: Southside Bay at Ragged Island.  The farthest south we’ll be going. 

The only settlement here in the Jumentos is called Duncantown, population about 60 I think, which suffered a direct hit from the hurricanes this fall.  They had a school, government building, police station and a number of houses all with extensive damage.   Most residents were evacuated to Nassau where many are living until they can come up with money and supplies to rebuild and repair.  The little they had here at Duncantown was destroyed.  The electric poles have been replaced with new as the old were twisted and knocked down in the wind.  17 people stayed on the island and survived during the hurricane.  They have a deep faith in God. 

Our friend Maxine who has had a small store at Duncantown for years happened to be in town assessing the damage and stocking supplies for residents and boaters. Maxine came down to the anchorage and we brought over bags and boxes of tools, clothing and household supplies gathered from boaters back in Georgetown.  We hopped into the back of her pickup truck and took a tour of the length of Ragged Island, about 3 miles, witnessing the damage and repairs some have begun.  We asked how others could help out the Duncantown community.  For anyone interested you can donate to a Go Fund me account.

https://www.gofundme.com/raggedisland

The bank receiving these donations: Scotiabank, Bay Street East, Nassau, Bahamas.  Account number 50385/3334292

While at Southside we went on more all day beach hikes that included a picnic along the way.  It’s been windy and cloudy.  The solar panels haven’t had a chance to top up our batteries.

When the wind forecast called for clocking winds to south of east we hauled anchor and had a brisk sail to Hog Cay.  Southside has a lot of motion with waves coming around the end of the bay with southerly wind.  We were able to sail close hauled 4 or 5 miles up to Hog Cay going 8 knots at times in the 25 knots of wind!  All this sailing watching the depth meter at all times – don’t want to run aground going that fast. 

At Hog Cay the sun finally came out!  More beach walking and we even went snorkeling.  Ron, Jerry L, and Jerry S. filled every bucket.  No fish. Just lobsters.  We did see a lot of fish but none willing to come home with us.

There are other boats here at Hog Cay and even a pavilion on the beach that survived the hurricane.  It is right behind a rocky cliff so it had protection from the strongest NE winds.  The ocean side of Hog Cay facing east tells the story of the hurricanes.  I’m sure there were 50 ft. waves crashing onto the shore.  Lots of beach erosion and the sand blown inland.  Water and wind – 2 powerful forces.

We are preparing for high winds this weekend.  35 knots sustained with gust to 50 expected from the NE and E.   Unusually rainy and windy this winter in the Bahamas. We’ll be hunkered down reading books and playing cards!  

Bluejacket sailing to Thompson Bay, Long Island.

Scheherazade sailing to Thompson Bay in the rain.

Anchorage at Southside, Ragged Island

Duncantown government building.

Duncantown ruins of a home.

Duncantown, waiting for supplies to rebuild.

Many houses at Duncantown, such as this, are about 150 years old.

Goats on Little Ragged Island.

Erosion at the beach on Hog Cay.

Jerry and Ron play softball with a ball they found on the beach.

Sea beans, sea glass, shells, driftwood and glass fish float from the beach.  We found a friend for Bob too - a little Mickey Mouse.

Ron, Jerry and Jerry after snorkeling at Hog Cay.

This plane, which has been on Hog Cay for years, was hidden with trees last time we were here.

The hurricanes took the trees and now the plane is easy to see from the anchorage.

All that is left at the runway on Ragged Island.  The Welcome to Ragged Island is still here.  The building that was attached to the deck is gone.

1/8/18


A quick update – I arrived at the airport at West Palm Beach on New Year’s Eve day.  Within an hour of my landing we were on Persephone and on our way to the inlet at Lake Worth then out on the ocean by 3:30.  I called this passage from West Palm Beach to Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas my magic moonlit bus trip.  We had light winds, just enough to keep the sails full but not enough to shut off the motor and a bright full moon.  At midnight on New Year’s Eve I celebrated the event by waking up Jerry to take his watch.  He spent the first four hours of 2018 motor sailing with silvery moonlit waters across the gulfstream into Bahamian waters.

A cold front was approaching from the north which is why we skidaddled with full sails and motor to stay in front of it all the way to Georgetown where we cleared in 54 hours later.  Donna and Jerry on Bluejacket were near where we anchored to welcome us to the Bahamas.  Later, Ron and Deb from Scheherezade arrived.  I know it doesn’t sound like cold to you but the temperatures were in the 60s here in Georgetown.  Unusually cold, windy, with rain squalls for a couple of days before the sun came back out.  We listened to reports from the states of the frigid temperatures, snow and ice.  We left just in the nick of time!

It is beautiful here as always.  The water is crystal turquoise blue and the sand on the beach sparkling white.  We are able to check our anchor by just looking over the side.  Good visibility to 20 feet.  There are about 160 other cruising boats here in Elizabeth Harbor/Georgetown area which provides a frenzy of activities and people to meet.  On one side of the harbor we strolled the beach area around the Chat-N-Chill bar and saw boaters playing volleyball, weaving baskets, crocheting, playing games, kids on rope swings, lively conversations.  On the other side of the harbor we walked around town with Donna and Jerry and saw a new straw market building under construction for the locals to sell their wares.  Donna started asking questions to the man who looks like he is in charge and he was happy to talk and put his hand around her shoulders as they stood back and admired the project together. The next local we meet is officer Burroughs who is also happy to stop and chat asking questions about our stay and telling us stories from his time in the US.  The people here are wonderful.

We have no schedule of where we will be or when this winter in the Bahamas.  There is another cold front coming through the end of the week so we’ll probably be here in the Georgetown area until the weekend.  Then on to Long Island and points south, I think.  Even though I won’t be posting updates often I will push the SPOT so you’ll be able to see where we are.  Thanks to Jerry and Donna for sharing their Bahamian phone/internet with us!  Some day we will have one of those fancy phones to do the same!

Here’s a screen shot I took of our weather forecast (sailflow.com) showing the wind direction and strength from southern Florida through the Bahamas.  Our destination is at the bottom right hand corner right around the “Quicklook 062”.

Jerry calls for the fish to take a bite on the lure as the sun goes down on the Exuma Sound headed for Georgetown.

We take a beach walk with Jerry from Bluejacket after the rain passes through.

Jerry Luh finds treasure on the beach – a black stallion!

An update to the update.  It is 1/11 and the squalls are rain are on standby for the minute.  4 inches of rain in one of the storms we've had!  At least it's warm!