3/3/18

Our view of the cave and the palm trees lining the beach on the south end of Rudder Cay.

Sailing along the banks in light winds.

Our view of the sandcastle anchored here near Black Point.

The pictures above are from the last few days as we head north.   See below for pictures to go with these words from Marianne's February visit.

With a freezer full of lobster, hog fish and conch we left the Jumentos.  Marianne would be arriving in Georgetown for a visit!  Her initiation to this salty cruising life was an exhilarating mile + dinghy ride across the choppy harbor from the dinghy dock at Exuma Market on the west to our anchorage on the east.  Our dinghy captain, who was soaked by the time we arrived at Persephone, had a done a wonderful job of keeping me and Marianne dry. 

We enjoy having guests to remind us of the wonders around us that we sometimes take for granted.  Marianne was fascinated with the silty aquamarine blue of the water that changed to various shades of blue, green, and tan depending on the depth, the bottom and the sun.  Every sunset had some colors or shapes to gaze at in awe.

One afternoon we set up the watercolors in the cockpit and Marianne masterfully created the vista capturing the colors and beauty.

The winds were forecast to settle down by the end of Marianne’s week with us so we waited for those winds to go out sailing on the Exuma Sound.  We started the sail heeled over with 20 knots of winds going 7 + knots.  We had the real Marianne at the helm instead of the autopilot we named Marianne!  The winds abruptly died and we motor sailed back to the anchorage just in time to hop in the dinghy and go to a party!  The tourism department had a reception for “winter people” who come to the area.  Traditional foods such as conch, conch fritters, mac & cheese, peas and rice  filled our plates.  Part of a junkanoo band arrived with drums, horns, and costumes to entertain in lively Bahamian fashion.  What a fun way to finish the day!

Of course snorkeling, reading, playing games, singing with the guitar, soduko puzzles were a part of the week too.

Another project: Jerry pulled out his grinder, dremel, and the conch we found at Buena Vista Cay in the Jumentos.  Skillfully cutting with precision he removed the pointy end of the shell – just enough to make a hole to blow through.  Every day Marianne practiced blowing with and without the conch to master the art of conch horn blowing at sunset.  It was such fun to see the determination!  She will have more practice time to master the sound when we deliver the horn to her this spring. 

When two people live on a boat it is always exciting when a guest is coming.  We’ve already heard each others stories time and time again.  Marianne came with new stories!  We listened intently of Marianne’s reminisces of growing up in Germany, meeting her husband at medical school in Germany, hitch hiking Europe, stories of her 3 kids and 8 grandchildren and a labradoodle (Wolfie).  She has traveled all over the world and participated in choral presentations in Europe and the US.  Lots of interesting tales we were so thankful to have her share.  Thank you Marianne.  We look forward to your next visit.

The real Marianne at the helm sailing on the Exuma Sound.   Try this youtube video of Marianne sailing:  https://youtu.be/eb3TT_-iR4w

We found a shady spot to enjoy the tourism department’s festivities.

Marianne clapping along with the beat of the junkanoo band in costume on the dock.

Conch horn project on the aft deck.

Marianne learns about making the conch into a horn.

It must be sunset!  Marianne blowing the conch horn.

Happiness is a walk on the beach.

The waves roll in on Stocking Island.

Wave for the camera!

Mesmerizing water and waves.

The view of Exuma Sound from a hike across Stocking Island.

The view from Stocking Island looking down at our anchorage at Monument Beach.  Georgetown across the harbor.

Another view of one of the Monument Beach anchorage from the top of Monument Hill.

Looking north from the trail on Monument Hill.

Water color painting.

1/24/18

We left Georgetown, Exumas sailing east with Scheherazade and Bluejacket right behind through squall after squall.  Not a lot of wind but tons of rain!  That has been the theme this winter so far – lots of rain!  By the time we arrived in Thompson Bay on Long Island the skies had cleared some. 

The next morning the whole gang headed to the beach and north up the road to electric pole 108 where we turned onto the trail to the beach.  A whole day spent walking and looking through the sea grass on the beach.  Treasures – sea beans.  Sea beans are seed pods that have traveled the ocean currents from as far away as Africa landing on the beach here.  With hours and hours of sanding the beans become highly polished.  No luck finding sea glass.  During our picnic lunch the rain started falling again.  By the time we made it back down the road to our dinghies we were all thoroughly soaked!

Our next destination would be south to the Jumentos or Ragged Islands where there are no supplies so off we went to Hillside Grocery here near Thompson Bay.  We realized after picking up a few things that every item was the same price – about $7.  A bag of potatoes…$7.  4 apples…..$7.  A bag of oranges….$7.

The first day traveling from Thompson Bay we sailed with light winds trolling the fishing lines along behind.  Jerry caught one bonito ; enough for dinner and lunch the next day.  An overnight stop at Flamingo Cay and then on the next day for our destination: Southside Bay at Ragged Island.  The farthest south we’ll be going. 

The only settlement here in the Jumentos is called Duncantown, population about 60 I think, which suffered a direct hit from the hurricanes this fall.  They had a school, government building, police station and a number of houses all with extensive damage.   Most residents were evacuated to Nassau where many are living until they can come up with money and supplies to rebuild and repair.  The little they had here at Duncantown was destroyed.  The electric poles have been replaced with new as the old were twisted and knocked down in the wind.  17 people stayed on the island and survived during the hurricane.  They have a deep faith in God. 

Our friend Maxine who has had a small store at Duncantown for years happened to be in town assessing the damage and stocking supplies for residents and boaters. Maxine came down to the anchorage and we brought over bags and boxes of tools, clothing and household supplies gathered from boaters back in Georgetown.  We hopped into the back of her pickup truck and took a tour of the length of Ragged Island, about 3 miles, witnessing the damage and repairs some have begun.  We asked how others could help out the Duncantown community.  For anyone interested you can donate to a Go Fund me account.

https://www.gofundme.com/raggedisland

The bank receiving these donations: Scotiabank, Bay Street East, Nassau, Bahamas.  Account number 50385/3334292

While at Southside we went on more all day beach hikes that included a picnic along the way.  It’s been windy and cloudy.  The solar panels haven’t had a chance to top up our batteries.

When the wind forecast called for clocking winds to south of east we hauled anchor and had a brisk sail to Hog Cay.  Southside has a lot of motion with waves coming around the end of the bay with southerly wind.  We were able to sail close hauled 4 or 5 miles up to Hog Cay going 8 knots at times in the 25 knots of wind!  All this sailing watching the depth meter at all times – don’t want to run aground going that fast. 

At Hog Cay the sun finally came out!  More beach walking and we even went snorkeling.  Ron, Jerry L, and Jerry S. filled every bucket.  No fish. Just lobsters.  We did see a lot of fish but none willing to come home with us.

There are other boats here at Hog Cay and even a pavilion on the beach that survived the hurricane.  It is right behind a rocky cliff so it had protection from the strongest NE winds.  The ocean side of Hog Cay facing east tells the story of the hurricanes.  I’m sure there were 50 ft. waves crashing onto the shore.  Lots of beach erosion and the sand blown inland.  Water and wind – 2 powerful forces.

We are preparing for high winds this weekend.  35 knots sustained with gust to 50 expected from the NE and E.   Unusually rainy and windy this winter in the Bahamas. We’ll be hunkered down reading books and playing cards!  

Bluejacket sailing to Thompson Bay, Long Island.

Scheherazade sailing to Thompson Bay in the rain.

Anchorage at Southside, Ragged Island

Duncantown government building.

Duncantown ruins of a home.

Duncantown, waiting for supplies to rebuild.

Many houses at Duncantown, such as this, are about 150 years old.

Goats on Little Ragged Island.

Erosion at the beach on Hog Cay.

Jerry and Ron play softball with a ball they found on the beach.

Sea beans, sea glass, shells, driftwood and glass fish float from the beach.  We found a friend for Bob too - a little Mickey Mouse.

Ron, Jerry and Jerry after snorkeling at Hog Cay.

This plane, which has been on Hog Cay for years, was hidden with trees last time we were here.

The hurricanes took the trees and now the plane is easy to see from the anchorage.

All that is left at the runway on Ragged Island.  The Welcome to Ragged Island is still here.  The building that was attached to the deck is gone.

1/8/18


A quick update – I arrived at the airport at West Palm Beach on New Year’s Eve day.  Within an hour of my landing we were on Persephone and on our way to the inlet at Lake Worth then out on the ocean by 3:30.  I called this passage from West Palm Beach to Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas my magic moonlit bus trip.  We had light winds, just enough to keep the sails full but not enough to shut off the motor and a bright full moon.  At midnight on New Year’s Eve I celebrated the event by waking up Jerry to take his watch.  He spent the first four hours of 2018 motor sailing with silvery moonlit waters across the gulfstream into Bahamian waters.

A cold front was approaching from the north which is why we skidaddled with full sails and motor to stay in front of it all the way to Georgetown where we cleared in 54 hours later.  Donna and Jerry on Bluejacket were near where we anchored to welcome us to the Bahamas.  Later, Ron and Deb from Scheherezade arrived.  I know it doesn’t sound like cold to you but the temperatures were in the 60s here in Georgetown.  Unusually cold, windy, with rain squalls for a couple of days before the sun came back out.  We listened to reports from the states of the frigid temperatures, snow and ice.  We left just in the nick of time!

It is beautiful here as always.  The water is crystal turquoise blue and the sand on the beach sparkling white.  We are able to check our anchor by just looking over the side.  Good visibility to 20 feet.  There are about 160 other cruising boats here in Elizabeth Harbor/Georgetown area which provides a frenzy of activities and people to meet.  On one side of the harbor we strolled the beach area around the Chat-N-Chill bar and saw boaters playing volleyball, weaving baskets, crocheting, playing games, kids on rope swings, lively conversations.  On the other side of the harbor we walked around town with Donna and Jerry and saw a new straw market building under construction for the locals to sell their wares.  Donna started asking questions to the man who looks like he is in charge and he was happy to talk and put his hand around her shoulders as they stood back and admired the project together. The next local we meet is officer Burroughs who is also happy to stop and chat asking questions about our stay and telling us stories from his time in the US.  The people here are wonderful.

We have no schedule of where we will be or when this winter in the Bahamas.  There is another cold front coming through the end of the week so we’ll probably be here in the Georgetown area until the weekend.  Then on to Long Island and points south, I think.  Even though I won’t be posting updates often I will push the SPOT so you’ll be able to see where we are.  Thanks to Jerry and Donna for sharing their Bahamian phone/internet with us!  Some day we will have one of those fancy phones to do the same!

Here’s a screen shot I took of our weather forecast (sailflow.com) showing the wind direction and strength from southern Florida through the Bahamas.  Our destination is at the bottom right hand corner right around the “Quicklook 062”.

Jerry calls for the fish to take a bite on the lure as the sun goes down on the Exuma Sound headed for Georgetown.

We take a beach walk with Jerry from Bluejacket after the rain passes through.

Jerry Luh finds treasure on the beach – a black stallion!

An update to the update.  It is 1/11 and the squalls are rain are on standby for the minute.  4 inches of rain in one of the storms we've had!  At least it's warm!

12/30/17

Wishing you a Happy New Year!  If all goes as planned, Karen will fly back to West Palm from frigid NY on 12/31, Jerry will meet her at the airport and we will head to the Bahamas.  You can keep track of our whereabouts via the SPOT link you see in the upper right hand corner of this page.

Thanks to Dale and Roni we were able to provision for the Bahamas before I left for Maine.  Yes, it all fit in the dinghy.

Bob hangs out at the airport in Philly while we are delayed; finally arrived in Ithaca, NY at 3 am.

The view from my sister's house in Maine.

Bob was found on the beach in the Bahamas a couple years ago - this is his first time in the snow.

12/7/17

12/7/17

We pass a barge full of utility trucks...heading for Puerto Rico?

Another picture of the tug and barge going out at Jacksonville, FL when we are coming in.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Persephone anchored near Atlantic Beach, FL

Chef Chris of the Ritz Carlton working in the Ritz Persephone galley.

Unbelievable Asian porridge.

Andrew in front with his cars.  Amy and I toast with the cups Amy created years ago.

The deck is done after sailing from Jacksonville to Ft Pierce.  You can see the difference in color.  Port side is freshly sanded.

Jerry, Jerry, Donna, Deb and Ron awaiting the Christmas parade in Vero Beach with a view of the ocean and full moon.

Bob comes along for the Christmas parade in Vero Beach.

Jerry, Karen and Ron in the dinghy on the way back to the boat with our headlights on.

We made it to Stuart!  Jerry with Roni and Dale on Dale's 28' Shannon sailboat.

Last time I wrote we were headed to Beaufort, NC and then south looking for wind with no south in the forecast.  November 20th was a brisk chilly morning when we headed out of Beaufort Inlet at 3:30 in the morning.  The 35 knot winds had settled to a gentle 15-20 from the northwest and we sailed along at 7 – 8 knots.  By late afternoon the winds had settled more and we motor sailed.  This window of opportunity to head to FL contained some southerly winds in it according to our weather forecaster Chris Parker on the single side band radio.  We decided to continue on, take our licking, and arrive in FL rather than stopping in Charleston.

 Just as predicted the winds picked up and came around to the south, the skies turned dark, thunder, lightning, heavy rain.  If we were in the old Persephone the hull would crash down as it headed into the seas.  The new Persephone sails with a more comfortable motion.  The deep V shape of the bow under water cuts instead of slaps the waves.  The nasty weather lasted for about 6 hours.  The stars reappeared around midnight and the wind clocked around to the west.  Our arrival in Jacksonville, FL was celebrated by stuffing the long underwear and wool socks into the laundry bag.  60 hours from Beaufort, NC to Jacksonville, FL.

It rained on and off the entire day on Thursday but we are happy to sit inside resting and baking.  Turkey, stuffing, potatoes, cranberry sauce, gravy and broccoli.  Plenty to be thankful for – the decks are “done”,  we’re in FL where we don t-shirts and shorts, family and friends who are encouraging and helpful.

The next day the sun came out and we moved a couple of miles to an anchorage on the ICW near our friends Chris and Amy.  They arrived after Chris had been cheffing at a Ritz Carlton restaurant all day and there he was to prepare yet another meal.  This one something new he wanted to try – porridge.  An Asian porridge with rice.  While Amy and I chatted, Andrew who is 5 (and a half!) drove his race cars on the track (the perimeter of the table), Jerry hovered with camera and questions Chris cooked in the galley.  The results were divine.  You can see the celery and cilantro leaves, yellow pepper slivers, boiled eggs, scallions, and mushrooms in the picture over the porridge with a flavorful sauce of ginger, honey, tamari, lime juice and more.  Amy and I celebrated with a cup of wine – if you’ve been aboard Persephone you know my wine cups are very special.  Amy is the one who created them in her ceramics class years ago using coral to imprint the outside of the cups.

It was hard to follow such an exotic dinner but the turkey soup I made the next day for everyone was gone by the end of the night.  Dinner was followed by many rounds of dominoes, traditional dominoes like they play in the Bahamas, not Mexican Train dominoes.  Andrew is the smartest 5 ½ year old we know and he won many of the rounds.  It was nice to have the opportunity to visit as we haven’t seen Chris, Amy and Andrew in a couple of years.

Our next sail south was from Jacksonville to Ft. Pierce.  The winds were supposed to be 10-15 from the northeast.  We were lucky to have barely 10 and had to start the motor to help out the sails.  With the motor running and calm seas it was the perfect opportunity to finish sanding the caulk off the port side.  Picture us out on the ocean, music blaring, inverter on to power the sander and vacuum, sanding away, dolphins swimming at the bow.  The wind was behind us and conveniently blew the dust forward.  We sanded Sunday and Monday; the decks are finished by the time we anchor Monday afternoon in Fort Pierce.  Yeah!  Donna and Jerry on Bluejacket come in a little later finishing up their jaunt from Georgetown, SC to Fort Pierce.

We have never stopped at Vero Beach, FL over our 20 years of cruising – a place where everyone else stops.  Some call it Velcro Beach.  Once you come in, take a mooring ball, it’s hard to leave.  Free city buses pick up and deliver wherever you need to go, there are all kinds of activities to join, and more than 100 boats on the moorings with old friends and new to visit and meet.  Donna and Jerry are going.  Ron and Deb are there already so we haul anchor and head 15 miles north and anchor past the mooring balls at Vero.  Other than the no-see-ums we enjoyed our stay here taking advantage of the free buses, doing laundry, going to the farmers market, visiting.  Our couple of days we planned to stay turned into 5.  It wasn’t all play – we spent hours cleaning to get the black off the boat from the sanding, changed the engine oil and even started washing and waxing the hull.  Our last night we went to Vero Beach Christmas Parade.  We sat on the side of the road, looking out at the ocean and full moon while the 90 some floats, marching bands, and twirlers pranced by in the dark.

Now we are in Stuart, FL.  NY friends Dale and Roni live here as well as “Aunt Susan” and Ken from back home.  Our friend Arnaud lives nearby in Manatee Pocket.  Bluejacket and Scheherezade pulled in a couple of days after we arrived.  So much to do!  I will be flying home on the 15^th to spend Christmas with family while Jerry stays here on the boat.  He’s never too keen on the idea of leaving FL and sunshine for NY/Maine; even for just 2 weeks.

Karen & Jerry

"Persephone"

11/18/17

11/18/17

A quick update – the deck on the port side is “done”.  Done is in quotation marks because the new grooves are sealed with caulk.  We still have to sand the excess caulk off but that must cure for a week before sanding.  We’ll have to work on that in Florida.  But that means the project is pretty much done!

The rest of the deck on port is caulked.

Even after washing my hands the caulk remains.  I call it "deckhand".

 And it’s getting cold here in North Carolina!  Another night in the 30s tonight.  Donna and Jerry loaned us an electric cube heater to take the chill off.  How lucky we are to have friends who have made this project possible.  We realize that our solar power nor our inverter would  be able to keep up with the electrical demands of the router, sander, and vacuum all day.  This week we worked like mad to finish.  As they work on their projects Donna and Jerry would announce “lunch time” or “come on up for dinner” just as I went below to figure out what we would eat after a long day working.  Thank you!  Thank you!  Thank you!  We are looking forward to spending more time with them when we’re not working on a huge project as we both head to the Bahamas this winter.

Our plans are to head to Beaufort on Sunday and then south.  We’ll see how far we make it with decent wind.  Decent means most any wind direction with no south in it.  You should be able to keep track on of us with the SPOT (link on top right hand corner of persephonesail.blogspot.com page.)  It looks like we'll have to do some "hops" in and out along the coast to avoid those southerly winds.

I was able to put 6 coats of varnish on the table before we had to put it together and in place.

Persephone and Bluejacket at the dock  - making preparations to leave.

And on the few days it rained we found other things to do.  One was retrieving a free golf cart for cousins Dick and Georgette.  It took a bit of work to get it back into shape but now Dick has wheels to drive around the golf course (bordering their back yard) and the neighborhood.

Dick and Georgette in Dick's new wheels.

The spot for the golf clubs in the back of the cart.

 Keep us posted as to what's happening with you and your family.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Karen & Jerry